Microdermabrasion vs. Dermaplaning for Acne

N on-invasive cosmetic procedures are the most appreciated at this moment since they don’t imply painful or costly recovery and produce great results almost instantly. Among the most common, we have microdermabrasion and dermaplaning, which can be performed either at home or at an esthetician’s office. They can both be seen as forms of exfoliation, as they peel a superficial skin layer, making room for a new one, which is cleaner, fresher, and more luminous.

Yet, there is more than peeling with these procedures, and they differentiate one from another as well. In this article, I will try to describe how each treatment functions and dig deeper into the advantages and side effects, so you can get a clear view of the procedure that works best for you.

What Is Microdermabrasion?

It is included in the offer of each respectable dermatologist’s office and was made famous by celebs like Mary Kate Olsen and Gwyneth Paltrow, who started praising the practice in their microdermabrasion machine reviews and recommending it to their followers who wanted to attain the same flawless skin they were displaying. The treatment is often done with a top-quality machine that has two functions: the first one removes dead skin cells, which combined with oily skin and improper skincare, are the ones leading to clogged pores and acne; the second function has vacuum power and helps target blackheads and whiteheads while stimulating the dermis and rejuvenating it.

Diamond Micrabrasion Machine Face Treatment

Types of Microdermabrasion Machines

• Microcrystals: this is the classical type of procedure, and it consists of spreading a solution containing tiny crystals of aluminum oxide that are afterward rubbed on the face to help release impurities from the pores. The treatment tends to be cheaper but comes with a disadvantage: in the end, the crystals need to be vacuumed, but if this step is not done properly, they can end up being the ones causing the pores to clog and swell.
• Diamond tip: the most advanced type of dermabrasion, this procedure implies using a diamond tip to scratch the surface of the epidermis until the layer of dead skin is peeled.

Effects of the Procedure on the Skin

• It targets the uneven surfaces of the skin – dermabrasion can be used to reduce the first signs of aging, like fine lines and wrinkles. It is also efficient in reducing scars left by acne, especially if combined with a YAG laser skin resurfacing treatment, which was shown to produce long-lasting benefits without generating any significant side effects.
• It softens the skin and reduces pigmentation – it is used by estheticians on patients who have dull or thick skin due to age, improper care, or a genetic condition. It also has a good effect on hyperpigmentation and helps even out the skin tone.
• It can be used in treating acne – the suction function helps cleanse the pores and prevents the emergence of new zits. The treatment also has a temporary drying effect on the skin, which can reduce the production of sebum. The results obtained by this clinical trial performed in 2001 showed that most subjects were pleased with the effect the procedure had on their skin.

Risks Associated with Microdermabrasion

There are no known long-term side effects that can affect the skin. However, right after the procedure, you may experience:

• Dry skin
• Flaky skin
• Redness
• Cold sores
• Sun sensitivity

How Much Does It Cost

Many people choose to have the procedure done at a professional salon, as they consider they cannot obtain the same results at home. Yet, this can generate costs of up to $200 per session, which are pretty high. Instead, other people prefer to acquire a machine and master the technique at home. Most buying guides recommend picking a high-end diamond tip model, like the TopDirect Professional Diamond, which costs around $200. Even if the upfront cost seems high, the investment, in this case, is recovered during the first sessions.

Doctor Preparing to Use Scalpel on Woman’s Face

What Is Dermaplaning and How Is It Different from Microdermabrasion?

Both treatments are different from chemical peel through the fact that they use a mechanical procedure to clean the epidermis. Nevertheless, dermaplaning differentiates from dermabrasion through the instrument it uses. More precisely, the esthetician will use a scalpel on your skin to remove the superficial layer. This treatment is less-invasive but requires good precision. This is why most people choose to leave it to the hand of a specialist.

How It Benefits the Skin

• It has good effects on treating hyperpigmentation – it is a common procedure used by estheticians on patients with hyperpigmentation, as it opens the pores and facilitates the penetration of the substances used to inhibit melanin production.
• The skin recovers fast – compared to microneedling, this treatment doesn’t produce inflammation or long-lasting redness. It is less invasive even than microdermabrasion, which is why it is often used by dermatologists before other facial treatments.
• It removes the peach fuzz – this may be the biggest difference between the two treatments, as the scalpel used in dermaplaning acts as a razor and removes the fine hairs from your face, making it look more luminous and soft to touch.

Risks Associated with Dermaplaning

According to this article published in the University of Rochester Medical Center’s Health Encyclopedia, you can experience the following side effects after dermaplaning:

• Changes in pigmentation
• Fever blisters
• The sensation of thick skin

How Much Does It Cost

This is among the cheapest facial procedures available. It will cost you from $45 to $60 to have it performed by an esthetician, and you can pay between $5 and $30 for a set of scalpels. In the long run, buying razors is the most advantageous deal, but make sure you take your time to learn how to use them properly.

Does Hair Grow Back after Dermaplaning?

Naturally, hair grows back after the procedure, as it wasn’t removed by laser. However, the difference in length and texture is not noticeable. The myth that your facial hair will become darker or thicker is, in most cases, a myth. You may feel it rougher as it starts to grow as these are the stubbles trying to find their way out of the skin, but as the fuzz recovers its length, there will be no visible difference.

If you don’t want to deal with the stubbles or have fuzz on your face again, the best way to avoid it is to establish a dermaplaning routine and keep to it. If you want to permanently remove the fuzz on your face, the best way is to go through a laser hair removal procedure.

Can You Do Both Dermaplaning and Microdermabrasion?

This is a question that is asked very often. Yes, you can, but you need to do them in a certain order. Thus, remember that you first need to do the dermaplaning since it is the most gentle, and only then do the dermabrasion. You can use dermaplaning before any facial, even chemical peeling, as it can help enhance the results. Avoid changing the order of the treatments, though, as this can lead to irritation and even bruises.

In Conclusion: Microdermabrasion or Dermaplaning?

Today, the trend is to do both and get the best effects from each of them. However, if this idea doesn’t seem like a good one to you, you can take a moment and think about the purpose of each procedure and the skin problems you are expecting to be treated. Here are my recommendations:

• Use dermaplaning if you want to get rid of the fuzz on your face and reduce pigmentation – this is the only procedure that can remove unwanted facial hair in a very gentle way while providing exfoliation. It can open the pores and prepare the skin for other procedures as well, and it is almost a must before applying depigmentation treatments. It is also cheap and has very mild side effects.
• Use microdermabrasion when dealing with acne and fine lines – this is a more complex treatment that stimulates collagen production and profoundly cleans the pores, helping them close and preventing the apparition of new zits. It can also help even out the skin aspect and make wrinkles look less deep.